Lhotse
Expedition
(8501m.)
Lhotse was
climbed by a Swiss Expedition
in 1956; its lower peak, Lhotse
Shar, 8383m, is sometimes considered
a Separate 8000m peak. Lhotse,
which means 'south peak', is
part of the Everest massif,
Just to the sout of Everest.
The primary route of Lhotse
is via Everest's South Col,
but despite the activity on
Everest, by 1955 Lhotse was
the highest unclimbed peak in
the world. Lhotse has had the
least climbing activity of any
8000m peak in Nepal. The record
in 2000 stood at 95 summiters,
85 Expeditions and six deaths.
The first attempt
on Lhotse was by an international
team in 1955. One member of
the party was Erwin Schneider;
during this Expedition he began
work on the first of the series
of high-quality 'Schneider'
during this expedition he began
work on the first of the series
of high-quality 'Schneider maps'
of the Everest region.
The same Swiss
who made the second ascent of
Everest in 1956 made the first
ascent of Lhotse from a camp
just below the South col.
Lhotse Sar was first climbed
by an Austrian expedition in
1970. Variouse routes on the
main peak were attempted by
Japanese,
South Koreans, Germans, Poles
and Italians before the summit
was reached again by a German
Expetition in 1977.