There
are three seasons for mountaineering in
Nepal. The permission season from April
to early June was once the only season
during which expeditions climbed major
peaks.
In the 1950s all expeditions
where in the lull before the storm period
that occurs between the end of the winter
winds and the beginning of the monsoon
snow. Cold and high winds drove back the
Swiss expedition to Mt Everest in 1952
when they attempted to climb the mountain
in the autumn. It was not until 1973 that
an expedition success fully climbed Everest
in autumn.
Now the autumn or post monsoon season
of September and Scoter is a period of
many successful expeditions.
In 1979 the ministry
of tourism established a season for winter
mountaineering. It is bitterly cold at
high elevations from November to February,
but recent advances in equipment technology
have allowed several teams to accomplish
what was thought before to be impossible
a winter ascent of a Himalayan peak.
Climbing during the monsoon,
from June to august, is not practical
from the Nepal side, though the north
face of Everest has been climbed during
august.
Two organizations control climbing in
Nepal