Annapurna
Expedition (8091m)
Annapurna (8091m)
Annapurna was first climbed
by a French expedition in 1950.
There are four summits called
Annapurna; the entire massif
forms a barrier on the northern
side of the pokhara Valley.
The main summit
of the Annapurna sanctuary;
Annapurna II is above Chame,
about 24km to the east. Fewer
climbers have reached the summit
of Annapurna than any other
8000m peak in Nepal. Only 96
climbers on 106 expedition had
reached the summit by the end
of 2002 52 climbers had died
on the mountain.
A french expedition
led by maurice Herzog explored
the kali Gandaki valley in 1950.
After deciding that Dhaulagiri
was too difficult, they turned
there attention to climbing
Annapurna. Hampered by inaccurate
maps, they spent considerable
time and effort finding a way
to the foot of the mountain.
They eventually ascended via
the Miristi khola to the north
face and made what was the first
ascent of any 8000m peak on
Jun 3, Just before the start
of the moonsoon.
The summiters Suffered frostbite
on the descent and were finally
evacuated back to the roadhead
in india.
Annapurna was
not climbed again until 1970,
when a British army expedition
followed essentially the same
route as Herzog. At the same
time Chris Bonington let a successful
British expedition to the very
steep and difficult south face.