Island Peak Expedition from the South East Flank
& South-West Ridge

Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult.

Island Peak Climb from the North Ridge Route
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+.

SAMPLE ITINERARY:
Days 01-02: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Namche.
Day 03: Acclimatization day at Namche.
Days 04-05: Trek Namche-Thyangboche-Pheriche.
Day 06: Acclimatization day at Pheriche.
Days 07-09: Lobuche - Kalapattar - Everest Base Camp Trek.
Days 10-11: Trek to Chukung-Island Peak base camp.
Days 12-14: Island Peak climb.
Days 15-19: Return trek to Lukla.
Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu. End of Island Peak Expedition.

This peak can be combined with others like Phokalde, Island Peak, or Lobuche East. The trekking route can include crossing the Chola pass into the Gokyo valley.

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